How to Get Wrinkles Out of a Graduation Gown

Last updated: October 22, 2026

Quick answer: most graduation gowns are thin polyester, so use gentle heat. The safest method is a handheld or upright garment steamer: hang the gown and steam from top to bottom without pressing the head onto the fabric. No steamer? Iron it inside out on the lowest synthetic setting, about 230 to 275 °F (110 to 135 °C), through a pressing cloth, or hang it in a steamy bathroom for 15 to 20 minutes. Never use high heat: polyester can melt or turn shiny.

Graduation gowns usually arrive folded tightly in a plastic bag, with sharp creases that do not drop out on their own in a day or two. Most rental and purchase gowns in the US are 100% polyester, often with a matte or slightly shiny finish. Polyester resists wrinkles once they are out, but it is heat-sensitive, so the goal is to relax the creases with moisture and moderate heat rather than force them flat.

Check the tag or the instructions that came with the gown first. Some gowns, especially those made from recycled plastic bottles, specifically say not to iron, and rental gowns may have their own rules.

Start by unpacking and hanging it early

Take the gown out of the bag at least a few days before the ceremony and hang it on a wide, padded hanger, zipped or buttoned, away from
direct sunlight. Gravity alone softens light creases. Doing this early also gives you time to try gentler methods before reaching for an iron.

Method 1: use a garment steamer (best option)

Fill the steamer with water as the manual recommends and let it heat fully so it does not spit.
Hang the gown on a sturdy hanger, ideally on a door hook or shower rod at a comfortable height.
Hold the steamer head an inch or two from the fabric and move it slowly from top to bottom.
Gently pull the hem taut with your free hand (keep your hand away from the steam) so the fabric hangs straight.
Do the front panels, sleeves, yoke and back, then let the gown hang for 10 to 15 minutes to dry before wearing.

Test first on the inside hem. If the steamer drips, wipe the head and keep it moving. A small travel model is plenty for a gown; see our guides to
handheld travel steamers and clothes steamers.

Method 2: iron on low with a pressing cloth

If the care tag allows ironing, this works well for deep fold lines:

Set the iron to the synthetic or one-dot setting, about 230 °F (110 °C), or two dots at most, about 300 °F (150 °C), if the label allows.
Turn the gown inside out.
Lay a thin cotton cloth (a pillowcase or tea towel) over the area. A slightly damp cloth adds gentle steam.
Press and lift, moving section by section. Do not leave the iron in one place.
Hang the gown immediately so new creases do not form.

Keep the iron away from any printed or embroidered school logos, and never let a hot soleplate touch the polyester directly. Our
iron temperature guide explains the dot settings.

Method 3: shower steam

Hang the gown in the bathroom, away from where the water can splash it, close the door and run a hot shower for 15 to 20 minutes. Leave the gown in
the steamy room for another 10 minutes, then smooth it with your hands and move it to a dry spot to finish. This works best for light wrinkles and
is a good fallback in a hotel room.

Method 4: the dryer with a damp towel

Put the gown in the dryer with a damp (not soaking) towel or a couple of ice cubes on the lowest heat or air-fluff setting for
about 10 minutes. The moisture creates steam inside the drum. Remove it immediately and hang it. Skip this method if the tag says “do not tumble dry”
or if the gown has a glued-on trim.

Method 5: wrinkle-release spray

Commercial wrinkle-release sprays, or a light mist of water from a spray bottle, help with small creases. Mist lightly, tug the fabric gently
straight and smooth it with your palm, then let it hang to dry. Test on the inside first to make sure the spray does not leave spots.

Caring for the cap and stole

Cap (mortarboard): do not iron or bend the board. Wipe the top with a lint roller, and steam the fabric skullcap lightly from a distance if needed.
Tassel: hold it over a steamer for a few seconds, or over a kettle’s steam, and comb the strands straight with your fingers.
Stole or sash: satin stoles are usually polyester; steam them or iron on low through a pressing cloth, from the back. Embroidered or metallic lettering should never be ironed directly.
Hood: steam gently; velvet trim crushes easily, so never press it.

What to avoid

High heat or the cotton setting: polyester can melt, pucker or turn permanently shiny.
Ironing directly on the right side of the fabric without a cloth.
Washing the gown in hot water or drying it on high heat, which can set wrinkles and shrink trim.
Leaving the gown folded in its bag until the morning of graduation.
Hanging it in direct sun for long periods; dark colors can fade.

If the gown does end up with a shiny patch, see how to get rid of shiny iron marks.

Frequently asked questions

Can you iron a graduation gown?

Usually yes, if the tag allows it: inside out, on the lowest synthetic setting, through a pressing cloth. Some gowns say not to iron, so check the tag first.

How do you get wrinkles out of a graduation gown without a steamer?

Hang it in a steamy bathroom for 15 to 20 minutes, tumble it on low with a damp towel for about 10 minutes, or use a wrinkle-release spray.

How early should I take my gown out of the package?

A few days to a week before the ceremony. Hanging it early lets light creases drop out and gives you time to steam it.

Can I wash my graduation gown?

Many polyester gowns can be hand washed or machine washed in cold water on a gentle cycle and hung to dry, but rental gowns usually should not be washed. Follow the care instructions supplied with the gown.

Related guides

Sources: ISO 3758 / GINETEX care labeling symbols and temperature definitions; Care instructions supplied with polyester academic gowns by US regalia suppliers; Garment steamer manuals from Rowenta, Conair and Jiffy. How we research.